Struggling to get your skincare routine to work because your breakouts don’t respond the way you expected? In this guide we’ll help you pinpoint whether you’re dealing with comedonal, inflammatory, cystic or hormonal acne and give you practical steps – complete with the right ingredients – to tweak each part of your routine. You’ll learn which products to reach for, how to layer them and when to see a dermatologist.
Understanding your acne’s nature is the first step towards a routine that truly supports your skin.
1. Identifying Your Acne Type
Here are the main types of acne and their characteristics to help you identify yours:
- Comedonal acne: This includes blackheads and whiteheads. Blackheads form when sebum and dead skin cells clog the pores and oxidise, while whiteheads are closed, blocked pores.
- Inflammatory acne: Characterised by red, tender spots, it is caused by inflammation triggered by bacteria trapped within the pores.
- Cystic acne: The most severe form of acne, featuring deep, painful cysts beneath the skin’s surface, often linked to hormonal imbalances or genetic factors.
- Hormonal acne: It typically appears on the lower face (chin, jawline) and fluctuates with hormonal cycles. It can present as red spots, cysts or small breakouts.
2. Comedonal Acne: Prioritise Gentle Exfoliation
Blackheads and whiteheads — the hallmarks of comedonal acne — are primarily caused by clogged pores. The goal here is to regulate sebum production and deeply cleanse the pores without irritating the skin.
Recommended routine:
- Cleansing: Use a gentle cleanser containing salicylic acid to deeply cleanse the pores. As a lipid-soluble ingredient, it penetrates the pores and helps remove excess sebum and dead skin cells responsible for blackheads.
- Exfoliation: Incorporate a chemical exfoliant based on salicylic acid 1 to 2 times per week, which may help prevent the build-up of dead skin cells.
- Targeted treatment:Succinic acid can be applied directly to blackheads and whiteheads and may gradually reduce their appearance. This ingredient may help keep pores clear while also helping to soothe any associated inflammation.
- Moisturising: Use a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser to avoid blocking the pores. Look for products enriched with niacinamide or zinc, which help balance sebum and calm the skin.
3. Inflammatory Acne: Soothe and Gently Purify
Inflammatory acne is characterised by red spots that are often tender and painful to the touch. In this case, your routine should soothe the skin and gently purify the affected areas.
Recommended routine:
- Cleansing: Use a gentle purifying cleanser morning and evening. Zinc-based cleansers can help soothe the skin and may help balance sebum.
- Soothing serum: Niacinamide is a soothing ingredient that helps reduce the appearance of redness. Apply it morning and evening, after cleansing.
- Targeted treatment:Tea tree oil is a natural ingredient with purifying properties, often used on red spots. Apply it as a targeted treatment directly onto blemishes after moisturising.
- Moisturising: Choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser containing zinc or niacinamide that may help maintain the skin barrier and may help prevent excess sebum production.
4. Cystic Acne: Opt for Gentle, Targeted Care
Cystic acne is the most severe form and often needs a dermatologist’s input because the cysts sit deep and can be painful. Still, a gentle, well-tailored skincare routine can complement medical follow-up and help keep the skin comfortable.
Under-skin pimples: how to get rid of them?
Recommended routine:
- Cleansing: Use a gentle cleanser to avoid further irritating the skin. Sulphate-free formulas designed for sensitive skin are particularly well-suited to avoid aggravating inflammation.
- Targeted treatment: Avoid mechanical exfoliants or overly aggressive treatments, as these risk further disrupting the skin.Succinic acid can be used sparingly and may help reduce the size of cysts while limiting the risk of irritation.
- Soothing serum: Opt for a gentle serum containing zinc and niacinamide to calm the skin. Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of redness.
- Moisturising: Choose a gentle, fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser that reinforces the skin barrier. Products containing zinc are particularly beneficial for cystic-prone skin.
Note: Cystic acne sometimes requires specific medical treatments, such as topical or oral antibiotics. Don’t hesitate to consult a dermatologist if your cysts are recurring or painful.
5. Hormonal Acne: Stabilise the Skin and Adapt Your Routine
Hormonal breakouts tend to follow the body’s hormonal rhythm, making them tricky to control. They usually show up on the chin, jawline or lower cheeks and can appear as red spots, cysts or tiny pimples.
Recommended routine:
- Cleansing: Use a gentle cleanser morning and evening to help prevent the build-up of sebum and impurities. Opt for a zinc-based cleanser, which may help balance sebum and soothe the skin.
- Balancing serum: Niacinamide and zinc can help balance sebum and reduce the appearance of redness. Apply a serum morning and evening for a balancing effect.
- Targeted treatment:Tea tree oil can be applied to hormonal spots for its purifying properties. For painful cysts, opt for a light, targeted application to avoid irritating the skin.
- Moisturising: Choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser that may help protect the skin barrier and may help prevent irritation. Niacinamide and zinc-based creams may help soothe skin in cases of hormonal acne.
Additional Tips for a Personalised Anti-Acne Routine
- Hydration: Whatever form your acne takes, keeping your skin hydrated is essential. Opt for non-comedogenic moisturisers enriched with soothing ingredients such as niacinamide and zinc.
- Sun protection: SPF is crucial, especially if you are using treatments such as salicylic acid or tea tree oil, which can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic sunscreen.
- Patience and consistency: Results can take several weeks, so it’s important to follow your routine regularly. Try introducing one new product at a time to assess how your skin responds.
Frequently asked questions
Comedonal acne shows up as blackheads and whiteheads – tiny plugs that block pores but aren’t inflamed. Inflammatory acne, by contrast, appears as red, tender bumps that are often painful to the touch and are linked to inflammation within the pore.
Start with a gentle zinc-based cleanser both morning and night to keep excess oil at bay. Follow with a serum that combines niacinamide and zinc to help balance sebum and calm the look of redness. Apply tea tree oil locally to any spots, and finish with a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser enriched with niacinamide for added calm.
Look for a light, non-comedogenic cream that contains niacinamide or zinc. These ingredients help maintain the skin barrier while helping to balance sebum, which can limit the chance of pores becoming blocked.
If cysts keep coming back, are painful, or start leaving scars, it’s time to book an appointment. A dermatologist can assess whether prescription treatments such as topical or oral antibiotics are needed.
Conclusion
Tailoring your skincare routine to your acne type allows you to better address your skin’s specific needs and maximise the effectiveness of the products you use. By understanding the characteristics of your acne and incorporating ingredients such as salicylic acid, succinic acid, zinc and tea tree oil, you can take a more targeted approach to the different forms of acne — all while caring for your skin.
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